the big kahuna

today the sun was shinning in montana de oro like any other day.glistening , beautiful sunshine illuminating the humongous waves rolling in one after another.by god they were awe inspiring . i dont think i have ever seen waves quite that large before they must have been 25-30 feet tall.the barrells crashing and booming against the rocks was so dramatic like a old movie about heartache and mystery ,while children played on the shore oblivious to the monsters waiting off shore.there was a lone surfer out, a pro with two jet skis to pull him in to the waves face as he slips along effortlessly .hauling ass , carving back and forth making it look so fun and easy slipping up and over the wave to be picked up by one of the jet ski's .this ocean of ours is so enticing its no wonder i dream of it so much .